Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants

Par Florian Matrion, le 22 novembre 2010
Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
Diaporama
For some, Haute Horlogerie is synonymous with conservatism. The Patrimony Retrograde that I have tested proves the contrary. Display, movement and shape of the case... everything is innovative! Review.
Exclusive! review of the Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants. Manufacturer data, photos, editor's opinion and watch retail price on thewatchobserver.co.uk
L'avis de la rédaction
77/100
Note des internautes
74/100

Slideshow = 19 photos to see this watch from every angle

 

A useful double complication

The display of the day and the date is a classic of watchmaking.
But what is not, is that it is retrograde.
And let-alone doubly retrograde!

The dial of this Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants is sober and legible.
On its upper part, a specific arrow-shaped hand shows the date, on 180° at the periphery.
On the lower part, another smaller hand, which axis is positioned just on top of 6 o'clock, shows the day of the week.

Thus, these two indications inscribe themselves in two curves, one upon the other one, but without overlaying each other: the subtle balance that emerges is a true success.

 

The display of the day and the date is a classic of watchmaking. But what is not, is that it is retrograde. And let-alone doubly retrograde!

A sober and elegant dial

Very slightly curved, the opaline dial is regulated by the classics of the Patrimony Contemporaine range: beveled markers (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock) alternated with the stick applied markers and the pearl-shaped motion work.

And of course, without forgetting the polished Croix de Malte.

The whole is made of white gold.

In order allowing to embank the forces linked to the immediate return of the hands at the end of the period (in 1/10th second), they are made of a flexible and light alloy.

 

One might regret that the stick-shaped hands of the hours and the minutes are of a very similar color with the one that indicates the days, positioned on the same axis. A second glance is indeed sometimes necessary to avoid the confusion.

The whole is sober, elegant and shows a strong identity.

 

A gorgeous case

The white gold case is also very successful.
Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful of the market – but it is a matter of taste!

With a 42.5 mm diameter, the case middle slims down to the wrist, allowing, thanks to the long lugs, to position itself naturally.

Despite this relatively important diameter for an elegant watch, it emerges a great visual presence, but no physical obstruction.
The comfort when wearing it is thus excellent.

On the other hand, the strap made of black alligator leather, enhanced by the folding clasp with the huge half Croix de Malte, offers a nice contrast with the wealth of details of the whole.

 

The in-house caliber of this VC is stamped with the Poinçon de Genève, which is not only a token of origin, but above all, of great quality.

A caliber for enthusiasts

The automatic movement of 11 lines ½ is conceived on the basis of the caliber 2460, launched by Vacheron Constantin in 2005.

In-house caliber, it is stamped with the Poinçon de Genève, which is not only a token of origin, but above all, of great quality.

It is an answer to some technical demands while being highly poetical – its flawless finishing being not all visible, contrary to the bevel or the grained finishing that you can see on the photos of the slideshow.

 

And all this for our great pleasure...

It has to be said that the ceramic balls that ensure the rotation of the guilloche worked rotor made of 22K yellow gold do not contravene the Poinçon de Genève's technical specifications – which did not plan it.

 

Conclusion

With this Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants, Vacheron Constantin offers both a classic and modern timepiece.
It will be able to answer the expectancies of the well-informed amateur, who is attached to the watchmaking traditional values and who wishes at the same time the technical and the aesthetic innovation.

 

The +:

  • exceptional consistency and success of the whole case/dial/caliber
  • a useful double complication for daily life
  • the Poinçon de Genève certication

 

The –:

  • possible confusion in the legibility of the time, because of the too similar color of the hands
  • no night-time legibility

 

Further information:

 

For other "dress watches",  see also:  

Diaporama
19 Photos pour voir cette montre sous toutes les coutures
Cliquez sur une Photo pour ouvrir le diaporama.
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants
  • Patrimony Contemporaine Jour et Date rétrogradants

Données constructeur

Marque
Modèle
Référence constructeur
Boîtier (matière)
Diamètre boîtier (hors couronne)
Diamètre boîtier (avec couronne)
Mouvement
Calibre
Base calibre
Fonctions
Verre
Capacité de la réserve de marche
Fond transparent
Entre-cornes
Longueur corne à corne
Hauteur boîtier
Etanchéité
Bracelet (matière)
Boucle (type)
Boucle (matière)
Poids total

L'avis de la rédaction 77/100

Confort / Agrément (/15)
détail Mouvement (/20)
Optimisation / Décoration du mouvement (/5) 0
Agrément de manipulation et de réglage (/5) 0
Contrôle du mouvement par la Manufacture / distinctions diverses (/3) 0
Capacité de la réserve de marche (/2) 0
Complications (/5) 0
détail Finitions (/20)
Finitions cadran (/6) 0
Finitions boîtier (/6) 0
Qualité du travail de déco° / gravure du fond de boîte (/2) 0
Qualité du verre (/4) 0
Finitions de la boucle (interne et externe) (/2) 0
détail Fonctionnalité (/20)
Lisibilité diurne (/5) 0
Lisibilité nocturne (/4) 0
Etanchéité (/3) 0
Facilité de réglage et de changement du bracelet (/4) 0
Sécurité / solidité de la boucle (/4) 0
détail Bonus (/10)
Série limitée (/3) 0
Montre fournie avec plusieurs bracelets (/2) 0
Qualité de la boîte et de la sur-boîte (/1) 0
Portabilité avec manches de chemise fermées (/2) 0
Présence de "goodies" (/1) 0
Intelligibilité du booklet (/1) 0
Rapport qualité / prix (/15)
Pour quelles occasions ? Quand la porter ?

Note des internautes 74/100

Confort / Agrément (/15)
Mouvement (/20)
Finitions (/20)
Fonctionnalité (/20)
Bonus (/10)
Rapport qualité / prix (/15)
Noter cette montre