IWC Portofino Chronographe

Par Florian Matrion, le 24 mars 2011
Portofino Chronographe
Portofino Chronographe
Diaporama
A watch named after a small Italian village? Sounds weird, but there's a reason to it: this city once was the Italian Saint-Tropez back in the 60s'. This Portofino is a tribute to the vintage years. 
Exclusive! review of the Portofino Chronographe. Manufacturer data, photos, editor's opinion and watch retail price on thewatchobserver.co.uk
L'avis de la rédaction
70/100
Note des internautes
64/100

Slideshow: 13 pictures for seeing this watch from every angle

 

Classic collection

 The IWC Portofino collection was born over a quarter of a century ago, and its trademark lies in its great classicism: leaf-shaped hands, uncomplicated black or silver dials, and an elegant case design.

The new collection presented at the SIHH 2011 comes in several models: a simple automatic model with hours, minutes and seconds, a manual winding model with an 8-days power reserve, a dual time one, and, finally, the model being presented here: an automatic chronograph.

 

Refined dial

The dial is as simple as it is elegant.
The IWC brand and Schaffhausen name framing the date at 3 o'clock, a very subtle 'Swiss Made' lettering, and that's it! No useless propaganda here!

The polished-steel applied markers and hands, show up very well against the black dial and its mild sunray finishing. Everything here has been very neatly done.
The resulting contrast allows a perfect instinctive reading of the hour.

Just two small touches of red applied on the 30-minute and 12-hour sub counters, soberly light up this dial.

The lack of a tachometer scale for the chronograph, which contributes greatly to the refined side of this watch, allows a maximum opening of the dial and longer hands than on other chronographs.

However, it's a pity the XII and VI indexes have been cut.
The XII looks like a VII and the VI feels like a III... with the middle 'I' haphazardly pivoted.

Finally, the impressive opening of the dial induces us into paying less attention to the stainless steel case, in spite of its having been very gracefully designed, with its beautiful round shapes.

 

This IWC Portofino Chronograph is available either with a black dial or a silver one.

Great comfort when worn

The watch either comes with a stainless steel bracelet ('Milanese mesh') or an alligator leather strap.

With a 2 mm thickness and designed just like a classic pin buckle leather strap, the Milanese mesh bracelet is a definitely successful piece of work!

First of all, it strongly supports and contributes to the watch's general visual feel.
It thus brings a sporty and somewhat offbeat touch to this otherwise very classically designed Portofino.

 

The real treat starts once you wear it: it emanates a most impressive, perfect balance between softness and strength.

One may just regret that the stainless steel sliding piece of the strap (great idea by the way!) that holds the bracelet's open tail, sometimes gets into the wrist's skin.
Yet, honestly, there's nothing really unpleasant with it!

The stainless steel bracelet perfectly holds the watch in tight position on the wrist, and makes wearing it a truly comfy experience.
With its 42 mm diameter case for a little less than a 14 mm case height, the watch is neither too massive nor too heavy.
Finally, the slightly rounded shape of the case helps the watch in easily slipping under your shirtsleeves.

 

With a 2 mm thickness and designed just like a classic pin buckle leather strap, the Milanese mesh bracelet is a definitely successful piece of work!

On the movement side

Movement lovers will be disappointed once they realize they can't enjoy the benefits of the 79320 calibre this Portofino comes with, as the watch does not have a sapphire crystal back.

Considering how often watches nowadays tend to jump on the bandwagon of the 'seeing the movement' trend — up to the point that it sometimes takes some manufacturers into giving their timepieces sapphire glass backs even when they're sporty watches (and/or when there's nothing specially interesting to see) — such an elegant watch as this IWC could have really been given a see-through back.

 

 

Indeed, its caliber, based on the powerful Valjoux 7750, is quite beautifully adorned (stippling, circular Côtes de Genève on the rotor...). It shall thus remain the exclusive privilege of a few enlightened insiders!

Nevertheless, the movement will see to its assigned function: robustness and reliability.

The movement has a stop-second that is only triggered when you change time.
A little coquetry, maybe, but anyone obsessed with time accuracy will be delighted!

For the chronograph function, IWC was kind enough to think of our fingers – that are too often abused by push-buttons being too small, therefore leaving marks when the triggering of the chronograph asks for an exaggeratedly strong push.
Well, this Portofino has mushroom-shaped push-buttons, with an impressive pressing surface that makes it all very pleasant to handle.
Last but not least, the date change is not instant. Too bad!
Insomniacs will be able to witness the slow ballet dancing of the 2 discs, at some point... between 11:00pm and midnight and a half!

 

In conclusion

IWC gracefully revives the sweet life of the 60s' with this Portofino chronograph.
Its classic design, counterbalanced by its sporty bracelet, will sure find its way into attracting anyone in his forties, looking for a chic timepiece — that he can also chill out with.

 

Pros:

  • very refined dial
  • design and quality of the Milanese mesh bracelet
  • precise watch setting thanks to the stop-second

 

Cons:

  • the lack of an instant date change at midnight
  • the lack of a sapphire crystal back – movement cannot be seen

 

Additional Information:

  • Portofino's new collection will be available at IWC authorized dealers during the summer of 2011
  • journalist's wrist size: 18 cm
Diaporama
13 Photos pour voir cette montre sous toutes les coutures
Cliquez sur une Photo pour ouvrir le diaporama.
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Données constructeur

Marque
Modèle
Référence constructeur
Boîtier (matière)
Diamètre boîtier (hors couronne)
Diamètre boîtier (avec couronne)
Mouvement
Calibre
Base calibre
Fonctions
Verre
Capacité de la réserve de marche
Fond transparent
Entre-cornes
Longueur corne à corne
Hauteur boîtier
Etanchéité
Bracelet (matière)
Boucle (type)
Boucle (matière)
Poids total

L'avis de la rédaction 70/100

Confort / Agrément (/15)
détail Mouvement (/20)
Optimisation / Décoration du mouvement (/5) 0
Agrément de manipulation et de réglage (/5) 0
Contrôle du mouvement par la Manufacture / distinctions diverses (/3) 0
Capacité de la réserve de marche (/2) 0
Complications (/5) 0
détail Finitions (/20)
Finitions cadran (/6) 0
Finitions boîtier (/6) 0
Qualité du travail de déco° / gravure du fond de boîte (/2) 0
Qualité du verre (/4) 0
Finitions de la boucle (interne et externe) (/2) 0
détail Fonctionnalité (/20)
Lisibilité diurne (/5) 0
Lisibilité nocturne (/4) 0
Etanchéité (/3) 0
Facilité de réglage et de changement du bracelet (/4) 0
Sécurité / solidité de la boucle (/4) 0
détail Bonus (/10)
Série limitée (/3) 0
Montre fournie avec plusieurs bracelets (/2) 0
Qualité de la boîte et de la sur-boîte (/1) 0
Portabilité avec manches de chemise fermées (/2) 0
Présence de "goodies" (/1) 0
Intelligibilité du booklet (/1) 0
Rapport qualité / prix (/15)
Pour quelles occasions ? Quand la porter ?

Note des internautes 64/100

Confort / Agrément (/15)
Mouvement (/20)
Finitions (/20)
Fonctionnalité (/20)
Bonus (/10)
Rapport qualité / prix (/15)
Noter cette montre